Essential Guide to Waxed Canvas - Klum House

Waxed canvas is an old-school classic that has made a huge comeback in recent years. If you've ever made a bag from a Klum House kit, you know that we are big fans of waxed canvas around here.

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This versatile, water-resistant fabric has a unique blend of style, functionality, and durability that makes it a favorite for bag making. The waxy finish helps it stay put at the machine, making it a dream to sew with—not to mention that it develops a beautiful, weathered patina over time.

Waxed canvas is a densely woven cotton canvas that has been saturated with wax, giving it an extra layer of protection against the elements. The waxed coating is made from paraffin or beeswax and records folds and creases. The fabric has a unique texture that gives it a vintage, rustic look. With use, waxed canvas becomes softer and more pliable. This means that over time, a waxed canvas bag or jacket becomes even more comfortable to wear.

At Klum House, our waxed canvas is made from 100% Better Cotton Initiative certified cotton canvas and treated with a unique wax blend of petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and paraffin, resulting in a dryer touch to the fabric than other waxed canvases on the market.

Waxed canvas has been used for centuries in a variety of applications, from military tents and sails to outdoor clothing and accessories. It has long been loved for its natural water resistance and rugged character, and it is widely considered to be the original waterproof textile.

It first became popular in the early 19th century with sailors in England and Scotland. Initially, linseed oil was used for waterproofing, but it caused the fabric to stiffen and yellow. Later, paraffin wax was used, which prevented fabric stiffening and yellowing. In , a British brand called J. Barbour & Sons Ltd began manufacturing waxed canvas for a broader audience. To this day, they are widely known for their waxed cotton jackets.

Waxed canvas is known for its durability: Its wax coating makes the fabric more resistant to wear and tear. It is ideal for items exposed to moisture or heavy wear, such as bags, tents, jackets, hats, gloves, and other accessories. You can even turn it into a variety of home decor items, such as curtains, pillow covers, and even upholstery.

When choosing a sewing pattern, look for bag, outerwear, and accessory patterns designed for heavy fabrics, such as canvas or denim. Avoid patterns that have a lot of small pieces or intricate details, as these can be difficult to sew with waxed canvas.

Although waxed canvas is more expensive than plain canvas (three to four times more expensive, reflecting the cost of the paraffin-based wax and the time-consuming process of saturating the canvas), it is less expensive and more environmentally friendly than many other materials with similar properties, including leather. Embrace waxed canvas as a substitute for the ubiquitous synthetics used in bags and outerwear. Your modern-heritage gear will make you stand out in the best way.

Different types of waxed canvas include oilskin dry waxed canvas, which has a drier finish (better for jackets) and traditional waxed canvas, which is shinier and great for bags. Don't confuse waxed canvas with oilcloth, which is printed vinyl with a synthetic backing, often used for tablecloths. Buying swatches first can help ensure you get the product you want.

While waxed canvas has a lot of structure, it is surprisingly flexible. It's not gummy or damp, but soft and pliable. Waxed canvas has a "memory," meaning that it records folds and creases and will hold its shape with a simple finger press. The wax has a slightly tacky feel to it and will probably make your hands feel a little waxy after working with it. Water beads on the surface, too, so your bags and jackets confer protection against the elements.

Rewaxing: The wax coating can wear off your project over time, especially in high-friction areas. This is a natural part of the aging process of waxed canvas and adds to the fabric's character and charm. If needed, you can rewax the fabric to revive the water-resistant coating. (OtterWax.com)

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Spot-clean: Waxed canvas doesn't stain easily, and the inevitable scuffs made by daily use blend into the fabric's weathered patina. However, if your waxed canvas does need cleaning, spot-clean it with a damp towel & a soap like this Waxed Canvas Spot Cleaner & never put it in the washing machine or dryer.

Cleaning wax from your machine: When sewing with waxed canvas, the feed dogs scrape wax off the fabric while it moves it through the machine. Over time, this wax builds up on the feed dogs and your needle. We've found that we can make five or six bags before the machine needs a cleaning. It's easy to clean the wax from your machine by giving the feed dogs a light scrub with a toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol.

From drizzles to downpours, chances are that everyone has an item or outfit they’d like to protect from the wet. Waterproof fabrics [ e.g. Recycled Dintex Meshback Softshell, Waxed Cotton , Italian Water-Resistant Gabardine] can be a sewist’s best friend– if you know how to use them! Whether you’re covering outdoor pillows, making weather-resistant trousers, or sewing up a high-quality rain jacket, knowing the ins and outs of waterproof fabrics will certainly help you on your way. In this post, we’ll identify the various types of waterproofing, what to look for in a waterproof fabric, and how to get that perfect, water-tight finish on any project.

Types of Waterproof Fabric: Synthetic versus Natural

Synthetic materials (such as vinyl) are reliably waterproof and durable, but they come at a cost to the environment. Vinyl production includes chemicals such as ethylene dichloride, mercury, and polychlorinated biphenyls, which wind up in the environment if not disposed of properly. Some eco-friendly alternatives include our Recycled Dintex Softshell which is made of  recycled Repreve® polyester fibres (recycled plastic bottles) and it's Oeko-Tex Standard 100-certified. The Dintex technology features an advanced laminated membrane that guarantees superior water and wind resistance, which is great for moderate weather conditions like rain or snow. Another alternative to purely synthetic waterproofing include fibre blends like our organic cotton + recycled nylon Italian Water-resistant Gabardine. Add Waterproof Seam Tape to seal up every seam! This handy notion ensures that the water can't leak in where your pattern pieces join up.

A coating is typically required to waterproof woven fabrics. Outdoor gear, such as tents, hiking jackets, and hammocks, are made of polyester coated in polyurethane, as polyester is lightweight and convenient for travelling. However, as with vinyl, polyester is not biodegradable. Alternatively, our Recycled Dintex Softshell is coated with a plant-based Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish that protects against the elements.

On the purely natural fibre side, cotton is commonly chosen as a natural fibre for waterproofing. Long staple fibres, in particular, make for good waterproofing, as the weave structure encourages water to slide off rather than soak in. When paired with a waterproof coating, these tightly woven fibres become impenetrable and keep water out.

Waterproof Coatings

While fabrics like our Waxed Cotton come pre-coated, you can also use coatings like Otterwax heavy duty fabric wax to waterproof canvas, twill, and other fabrics with a tight enough weave, such as denim. Waterproof coatings can range from polyurethane laminate (a synthetic derivative of petroleum) and silicone to natural oils and waxes like lanolin (produced by sheep to protect their wool) and beeswax.

Regardless of the coating used for your fabric, you will need to maintain it. Re-waxing your fabric seasonally will ensure a long life and enduring water-resistant qualities.

Choosing a Fabric

As with any sewing project, your choice of fabric will depend on the desired outcome. Fabrics like our Italian Water-resistant Gabardine retain a slight drape and are perfect for long coats with a bit of swish, or lighter jackets such as the Sienna Maker Jacket. Our Recycled Dintex Softshell boats a smooth hand and gentle drape, and it features a mesh layer at the back, promoting optimal airflow and keeping you comfortable during outdoor activities. It's the perfect performance fabric to make  all types of outerwear, such as jackets, cloaks, ski pants, and even adorable coats for your dog. Fabrics with a bit more weight, such as canvases and our Waxed Cotton are great for a little more heavy-duty projects, such as a more structured September Jacket or the Kelly Anorak. These types of fabrics would also be great for outdoor pillows, lawn furniture cushions, and the best backpacks and bags!

Preserving the Waterproof Properties of your Fabric

Here are some handy sewing tips to maximize the waterproof properties of your water-resistant synthetic fabrics like our Recycled Dintex Softshell or synthetic blends like our Italian Water-resistant Gabardine:

• Use clips instead of pins to secure fabric layers without puncturing them.
• Use Microtex needles to create fine holes and preserve the fabric's water resistance.
• Increase your sewing machine's stitch length to accommodate the fabric's thickness and reduce the number of holes.
• Seal your seams with waterproof tape to prevent leaks caused by needle holes.
• Avoid ironing! If necessary, use low heat and a pressing cloth, or use wonder tape to secure hems and seams without ironing.

Sewing with Waterproof Waxed Cotton

There is no need to be intimidated by waterproof fabrics, in particular waxed cotton. Conquering them is simpler than you think, requiring a dash of patience and a few tweaks in your sewing routine. Here are our top tips for sewing waxed fabrics:

• Use denim or heavyweight needles. Waxed coatings add weight to the cotton, requiring a little extra oomph to push through the fabric.
• You can hand wax the inside of your seams on to add more wax over the stitch holes to improve waterproofing using Otterwax heavy duty fabric wax
• Use longer stitches when sewing to minimize the number of holes in your waxed cotton.
• You can use an iron on the lowest setting with steam and a pressing cloth. A hot iron will melt the waterproof coating (and leave a sticky mess all over your iron), so always test on scraps!
• Do not use pins on your waxed cotton, as they will leave noticeable marks. Instead, use wonder clips to keep your pieces in place.
• Do not use markers. Waxed canvas takes on marks very easily, so you can mark it with a light stroke of the corner of a ruler or another blunt object you have around.
• Clean your sewing machine after use. (If you're anything like us, now is your chance to do that deep clean you've been putting off). The coating can and will get all over your feed dogs and needle and reach your bobbin case. A thorough cleaning will leave your machine sparkling and ready to sew again!

Caring for Waterproof Waxed Cotton

Waxed cotton develops lines and creases as it ages, creating a beautiful patina. While this is part of the charm, a few ways exist to minimize excessive creasing:

• You can roll your waxed fabrics up for storage to avoid fold-creases.
• You can also smooth out visible lines with a hairdryer. The warmth will melt the coating just enough to redistribute it across the surface of your fabric.
• Never wash your waxed cotton; this will strip the coating away and eliminate its waterproof qualities. Any stains should be spot-cleaned with saddle soap or something similar.
• Your fabric may require re-waxing seasonally, depending on use. If you notice your finished garment is losing its water-resistant properties, it's time to get some refinishing wax.

With the proper care, your waterproof garment should live a long life, protecting you and your belongings from the rain, whether you're the type to dash for the nearest building or stay out and splash in the puddles.

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