Key Questions to Consider When Specifying a Hydraulic Cylinder
Sep. 01, 2025
Key Questions to Consider When Specifying a Hydraulic Cylinder
Hydraulic cylinder use | Practical Machinist
I looked it up on the net and this is from a Grove RT5xx series crane... at least that is what it resembles from the photo I found. More snooping reveals that it is a 9" diameter x 38" stroke and there are seal kits available on the net, too. Grove evidently used the same boom lift cylinder on multiple models of machine.
It doesn't spell out what seals you get that may give some clue as to what I have.
I am torn between two answers. R. Dan and ABarnsley.
Mr. Barnsley.... if this was just single acting, why would there be oil on that side of the piston in the first place- to give the piston a little cushioning action?
When they were removing it they ran a strap thru the pin hole and lifted it off the machine. It took a bit, but after it had hung that way about 20 seconds oil started flowing out the return line connection.... slowly, but it picked up after a bit- at least 2 gallons shot out of the hole. The lifting boom they were using was slow acting so they couldn't drop it quick enough to stem the flow of oil by setting it on the ground.
I can understand it being single acting, but not why there would be oil on the retract side. If I was to use it double acting as is, with no work being done on the retract cycle... wonder if what seals are there would hold back a couple hundred pounds of pressure... whatever it takes to make that piston move?
What I am probably going to do is hook the cylinder up to a power unit and pressurize the return leg and see what happens.... see how little pressure I can feed it and make it work... all the way retracted and see how it acts bottomed out.
I called the fellas at "Baum Iron and Hydraulics" today and asked there expert about this, too. After I explained what I had, what it came off of and what it did... first thing he says is "that's a two way cylinder" and "in this day and age they don't use single acting cylinders for such things." Their words.
As I get around to it, I will give it a test and resurrect the thread. For those of you who don't go there, I started this thread out on the Antique forum by accident....posted that and hoped for the moderator to move it, but haven't seen that happen yet. It needed to be over here. Lotsa wild-ass guessing here from people who know no more about crane boom elevation cylinders than I know about flying the space shuttle, R Dan excluded.
The cylinders are double acting. Both hose connections will be at the block near the base of the cylinder. There's a cartridge type holding valve screwed into the block too. With the holding valve, you could chop the hoses off with an axe and the cylinder will just sit there even if fully loaded. You can get seal kits for the holding valves if they're leaking. Due to the way the block is ported, you can't just take out the holding valve and use the cylinder without it.
Most Grove boom cylinders also have a pilot line coming into the block that's set up such that you have to develop a certain amount of pressure on the rod side of the piston before the cylinder will begin to retract. IOW, it won't retract just by simply opening the return valve. This is done for two reasons. It controls the max retract speed of the cylinder, which controls the max rate at which you can lower the boom. It also keeps the cylinder from loping as the boom comes down. If the cylinder lopes (alternating fast slow fast slow motion), that's usually indicative of a broken spring within the holding valve assembly.
Most of Grove's cylinders use Sirvon piston seals. They're used to minimize any stick-slip motion because the piston will move freely in the bore due to the fact that the seal is narrow and the preload is very low as compared to a loaded u-cup type seal. Downside is the sirvon ring is very delicate and you have to use extreme care in sliding it over the piston and into the groove. A seal kit for one of these cylinders, consisting of piston and rod seals, wear rings, etc, is probably upward of $200 now from Hercules hydraulics, or twice that from Grove.
If these cylinders have good bores, pistons, and rods they can be far more valuable to someone who's looking for a spare than they'd be for any repurposed use. Last time I priced a Grove boom cylinder was 20 yrs ago. At that time, a 12" bore x 60" stroke boom cylinder was right at $26,000, and would likely be on the north side of $40K today with a lead time of a few weeks. There's a good used market for Grove parts.
Unlike some of the excavator cylinders, these are pretty easy to get apart. Typical retainer for the rod seal gland is a split ring with an external thread that screws into the end of the cylinder and then locked in place with a tapered pipe plug that screws into the ring at the split to expand the ring, plus a couple capscrews that pass thru the ring and thread into the upper part of the seal gland. The seal gland and the piston are both aluminum in every one of these cylinders I've ever worked on. The piston retaining nut varies depending on the particular cylinder. Some aree just snugged up and retained by a setscrew with a nylon plug while others have a hex nut upward of 6" across the flats. Those require a box wrench burned from about 1" plate so the wrench handle can be smacked with a hammer to loosen or tighten, unless you already happen to have a 6" combination wrench laying around
The rod is normally hollow. If so, there's a small screw with a sealing washer screwed into the rod near the eye. This screw is removed to bleed air from the rod because cycling the cylinder won't remove this air.
It doesn't spell out what seals you get that may give some clue as to what I have.
I am torn between two answers. R. Dan and ABarnsley.
Mr. Barnsley.... if this was just single acting, why would there be oil on that side of the piston in the first place- to give the piston a little cushioning action?
When they were removing it they ran a strap thru the pin hole and lifted it off the machine. It took a bit, but after it had hung that way about 20 seconds oil started flowing out the return line connection.... slowly, but it picked up after a bit- at least 2 gallons shot out of the hole. The lifting boom they were using was slow acting so they couldn't drop it quick enough to stem the flow of oil by setting it on the ground.
I can understand it being single acting, but not why there would be oil on the retract side. If I was to use it double acting as is, with no work being done on the retract cycle... wonder if what seals are there would hold back a couple hundred pounds of pressure... whatever it takes to make that piston move?
What I am probably going to do is hook the cylinder up to a power unit and pressurize the return leg and see what happens.... see how little pressure I can feed it and make it work... all the way retracted and see how it acts bottomed out.
I called the fellas at "Baum Iron and Hydraulics" today and asked there expert about this, too. After I explained what I had, what it came off of and what it did... first thing he says is "that's a two way cylinder" and "in this day and age they don't use single acting cylinders for such things." Their words.
As I get around to it, I will give it a test and resurrect the thread. For those of you who don't go there, I started this thread out on the Antique forum by accident....posted that and hoped for the moderator to move it, but haven't seen that happen yet. It needed to be over here. Lotsa wild-ass guessing here from people who know no more about crane boom elevation cylinders than I know about flying the space shuttle, R Dan excluded.
The cylinders are double acting. Both hose connections will be at the block near the base of the cylinder. There's a cartridge type holding valve screwed into the block too. With the holding valve, you could chop the hoses off with an axe and the cylinder will just sit there even if fully loaded. You can get seal kits for the holding valves if they're leaking. Due to the way the block is ported, you can't just take out the holding valve and use the cylinder without it.
Most Grove boom cylinders also have a pilot line coming into the block that's set up such that you have to develop a certain amount of pressure on the rod side of the piston before the cylinder will begin to retract. IOW, it won't retract just by simply opening the return valve. This is done for two reasons. It controls the max retract speed of the cylinder, which controls the max rate at which you can lower the boom. It also keeps the cylinder from loping as the boom comes down. If the cylinder lopes (alternating fast slow fast slow motion), that's usually indicative of a broken spring within the holding valve assembly.
Most of Grove's cylinders use Sirvon piston seals. They're used to minimize any stick-slip motion because the piston will move freely in the bore due to the fact that the seal is narrow and the preload is very low as compared to a loaded u-cup type seal. Downside is the sirvon ring is very delicate and you have to use extreme care in sliding it over the piston and into the groove. A seal kit for one of these cylinders, consisting of piston and rod seals, wear rings, etc, is probably upward of $200 now from Hercules hydraulics, or twice that from Grove.
If these cylinders have good bores, pistons, and rods they can be far more valuable to someone who's looking for a spare than they'd be for any repurposed use. Last time I priced a Grove boom cylinder was 20 yrs ago. At that time, a 12" bore x 60" stroke boom cylinder was right at $26,000, and would likely be on the north side of $40K today with a lead time of a few weeks. There's a good used market for Grove parts.
Unlike some of the excavator cylinders, these are pretty easy to get apart. Typical retainer for the rod seal gland is a split ring with an external thread that screws into the end of the cylinder and then locked in place with a tapered pipe plug that screws into the ring at the split to expand the ring, plus a couple capscrews that pass thru the ring and thread into the upper part of the seal gland. The seal gland and the piston are both aluminum in every one of these cylinders I've ever worked on. The piston retaining nut varies depending on the particular cylinder. Some aree just snugged up and retained by a setscrew with a nylon plug while others have a hex nut upward of 6" across the flats. Those require a box wrench burned from about 1" plate so the wrench handle can be smacked with a hammer to loosen or tighten, unless you already happen to have a 6" combination wrench laying around
The rod is normally hollow. If so, there's a small screw with a sealing washer screwed into the rod near the eye. This screw is removed to bleed air from the rod because cycling the cylinder won't remove this air.
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