Limestone: Characteristics, Uses And Problem - GSA

This procedure includes general information on the characteristics and common uses of limestone and identifies typical problems associated with the material. See also -01-S for guidance on inspecting stone masonry failures.

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Introduction

Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed principally of calcium carbonate (calcite) or the double carbonate of calcium and magnesium (dolomite). It is commonly composed of tiny fossils, shell fragments and other fossilized debris. These fossils are frequently visible to the unaided eye on close examination of the stone surface, however this is not always the case. Some varieties of limestone have an extremely fine grain.

Limestone is usually gray, but it may also be white, yellow or brown. It is a soft rock and is easily scratched. It will effervesce readily in any common acid.

Limestone may vary greatly in texture and porosity from coquina, which is a matrix of whole or pieces of sea shells loosely cemented by calcite, to oolitic limestone and microcrystalline limestone whose structures are so fine that they can be seen only under magnification.

Limestone deposits can undergo metamorphism during major geological events resulting in a recrystallizing as marble.

Oolitic limestone consists of substantial amounts of “oolites” or “ooliths.” Oolites are small spherical or sub-spherical grains of concentric calcite.

The actual classification of limestone and marbles can be very confusing to the non-geologists. The same stone can be marketed one time as a limestone and, at another time and place, sold as marble. The subtleties which sometimes differentiate between grades and types of stones are frequently beyond the concern and expertise of maintenance workers, building managers and historical architects with responsibility for maintenance of the resources. While this is understandable, it does not lessen or eliminate the need to accurately identify the materials which must be treated and maintained. Failure to accurately identify a material to be treated can result in the failure to consider important technical details which subsequently results in irreversible damage to the resource(s).

In an effort to improve accuracy in identifying the general categories of limestone at a ‘macro’ level, the following section contains descriptions of the most common types of limestone, however this information is no substitute for training and experience to correctly identify and catalog stone types. The following definitions are from the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) document, “Standard Definition of Terms Relating to Natural Building Stones.”

• Calcarenite: Calcarenite is composed of sand-sized grains of calcite, usually in the form of tiny fossils, shell fragments and fossil debris. Some calcarenites contain oolites and if the oolites are present in sufficient quantity, the stone is called oolite limestone. Oolite limestone is a sub-category of calcarenite.
• Coquina: Coquina consists of raw, unaltered shell fragments, often quite large, loosely cemented by calcite. It is generally very coarse and porous, frequently consisting of oyster and sea shells and fragments.
• Dolomite: Dolomite is a sedimentary carbonate rock composed of calcium and magnesium carbonate. Also called “magnesium limestone”, it contains from 5 to 40% magnesium carbonate.
• Microcrystalline limestone: This is a limestone structure of crystals too small to be seen without magnification.
• Oolitic limestone: Oolitic limestone is a calcite cemented calcareous stone composed of shell fragments, practically non- crystalline in character. Generally without cleavage, and extremely uniform in composition and texture, oolitic limestone adjusts to temperature changes.
• Travertine: A calcium carbonate, usually light in color, travertine can be extremely porous or cellular. It is usually deposited from solids in groundwater.

Limestone coloration is generally a consistent pure white to off-white. Many varieties do not take a polish well, so that the surface is typically a matte finish, no-gloss surface. limestone, like marble and other calcareous stones, are referred to as acid sensitive. Calcareous stones are readily dissolved in acid, therefore acidic products should not be used on limestone and marbles.

Typical Uses

Limestone is widely used in architectural applications for walls, decorative trim and veneer. It is less frequently used as a sculptural material, because of its porosity and softness, however, it is a common base material. It may be found in both bearing (structural) and veneer applications.

Problems and Deterioration

Weathering may have a degrading effect on the appearance and structural soundness of limestone. Factors include rain, snow, temperature, wind and atmospheric pollutants. Generally these factors act in combination with one another or with other agents of deterioration.

Rainwater, especially in combination with atmospheric gases often resulting in acid rain can result in dissolution of the limestone, causing higher levels of salt movement within the stone structure. Temperature can effect rates of deterioration and (in larger stones) movement of the pieces, as well as patterns of salt migration within the stone. Most of the natural or inherent problems which can occur with limestone require some degree of moisture to occur, however other problems such as wind erosion and vandalism may occur independently.

Natural or Inherent Limestone Problems

Weathering:

Limestone subjected to exterior exposures deteriorates due to weathering or the natural effects of wind, rain, and thermal change. Limestone is extremely durable. It does, however, absorb water and, since it is a carbonate rock, it is highly reactive when exposed to acids or even mildly acidic rain water, and it can suffer substantial deterioration. The most common effect of weathering and erosion is loss of precise detail.

Little can be done to restore edge detailing short of re-carving the stone which is usually infeasible.

Erosion:

Erosion can be the result of general weathering described above, or it can be a more localized phenomenon based upon handling or exposure. Wind driven airborne abrasives may selectively wear away detailing on certain elevations, based upon the direction of prevailing winds. One of the few effective ways to address this problem is by landscaping where plantings and/or grade can deflect the wind. Such landscaping and/or grading may range from the simple and inexpensive up to a major and expensive intervention. It would have to be consistent with appropriate policy for the management of cultural landscapes. It may, however, be cost effective when considering the extended life of the stone. The symptoms of erosion can be as simple as the loss of edge sharpness as described above, or it can be very localized, specific wear due to contact with landscaping and mowing equipment. Localized damage due to contact by mowing or other maintenance equipment is preventable. Where there is evidence of recurrent physical damage, steps should be taken to protect the resource(s).

Staining:

Discoloration of the limestone, whether general or localized, is staining. Staining, may be the result of exposure to a variety of exterior substances or to internal occlusions in the stone or structural elements.

Some of the most common types of staining and the causative agents are:

1. Oil/grease stains: These stains are usually the result of vandalism or use. A variety of organic or inorganic oils may be absorbed into the stone upon contact. The depth of penetration will depend upon the viscosity of the oil/grease, temperature, stone porosity, finish and dryness.

The appearance of grease/oil stains will usually consist of a darkening of the stone at the area of contact. The edges of the staining will generally be diffused, especially after an extended period. There are standard techniques for removing oil and grease stains.

For specific guidance on removing oil/grease stains from limestone, see -10-R and -11-R.

2. Dyes and inks: The staining could be any color depending on the type and source of the dye. This type of stain is likely to be extremely localized around the area of contact. The liquid containing the coloration may be absorbed into the stone and during the normal process of evaporation, the coloring pigment is deposited in the stone.

For specific guidance on removing ink and dye stains from limestone, see -18-R.

3. Organic stains: Organic stains are caused by direct contact with decomposing organic matter, such as leaves, bird or animal droppings, flowers, tea or coffee. Regardless of the source these stains tend to be a slight reddish-brown in color. They also frequently disappear after the source has been removed. These stains may be left to weather and bleach or oxidize out after the removal of the organic source, however a residue may still remain on the stone.

For specific guidance on removing organic stains from limestone, see -14-R.

4. Metallic stains: Two major categories of metallic staining occur, they tend to be based on either iron or copper. The source of the staining may be internal structural components or elements. A major source is the water wash, or run-off, from adjacent metallic elements, especially bronze and copper.
   1. Rust stains: These stains are reddish-orange and are caused by the oxidation (rusting) of iron. The source of iron staining is usually the structural or connecting components. These components are usually hidden and protected; however, water penetration from bad joints or cracks can activate or accelerate rusting. The discoloration may be within the stone or it may be a deposit of rust on the surface of the stone. Surface deposits of rust may sometimes be removed by hand rubbing with a clean cloth. The examination of the stain should include such rubbing to determine if it is only a surface deposit.
5. For specific guidance on removing rust stains from limestone, see -06-R.
   2. Bronze and Copper stains: Stains from water run-off from bronze can range in color from a light green to a dark brown. The staining results from the dissolved copper salts (from copper or bronze) which wash onto the stone, then oxidize. The pattern of the staining is likely to be localized, streaked and in the path of the run-off from the metallic source.
      
      For specific guidance on removing bronze and copper stains from limestone, see -07-R.

Crumbling:

This condition is indicative of a certain brittleness or tendency of the stone to break up or dissolve. It may be caused by an inherent weakness in the limestone or gradual breakdown of the binder, or it may be the result of external factors affecting the strength and durability of the limestone.

This condition may be caused by the use of de-icing salts, or any other source of salt migration, such as that which can occur when rising damp is present. There is currently little which can be done to repair the damage once this condition has developed, however the early detection of potential problems and elimination of sources of salts is critical to arresting the process. When this condition is severe and obviously caused by the heavy or inappropriate use of de-icing salts, it is sometimes called “Salt Fretting”. Regular preservation maintenance may eliminate the causes promoting crumbling, however, once the condition has occurred, its correction or repair is beyond the level of a maintenance procedure. The Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO) should be contacted for assistance.

Chipping:

The separation of small pieces or larger fragments from a masonry unit, frequently at the corners, edges or mortar joints is known as chipping. These fractures are generally caused by deterioration and repointing, especially due to the use of too hard a mortar, or by accident or vandalism.

Repairs include detachment repairs, patching and splicing. Repair of chipped stone requires a skilled mason and is not a maintenance procedure. If chipping is due to occasional impact from mowing or other landscape maintenance, steps should be taken to prevent future damage.

For specific guidance on repairing chips in limestone, see -03-R.

Cracking:

This condition is manifested by the appearance of narrow fissures ranging from less than 1/16 to 1/2 inch wide or more in the stone. It results from a variety of causes, such as structural overloading due to settlement, the use of too hard a mortar mix or a flaw in the material. Minor cracking may be no problem, in and of itself, but it can be an indication of structural problems and the cracks can be a point of entry of water into the interior of the stone, promoting salt migration. Cracking, which allows water or salts to enter the stone, increases the possibility of failure along the limestone and may result in subsequent spalling. Repairs include patching and replacement.

For specific guidance on repairing cracks in limestone, see -03-R.

Detachment:

This is not a failure of the material per se but a failure of the construction system, i.e. the connectors and/or joints. The definition implies that the failed component survives intact and may be re-installed using appropriate mechanical techniques.

The failure of anchors or metal connectors which lead to detachment may be caused and/or accelerated by the penetration of water into the structure behind the stone, causing rust and corrosion. Adequate pointing and caulking can prevent leakage and penetration of water into the system.

For specific guidance on re-securing detached limestone blocks, see -07-R and -13-R.

Efflorescence:

The appearance of a whitish deposit locally or uniformly over the surface may be efflorescence, the surface deposition of soluble salts. There are numerous sources for the soluble salts which create the hazy appearance; salts can come from mortar, improper cleaning agents, rising damp, de-icing salts, chemical landscaping treatments and air pollution.

Efflorescence can be a salt residue resulting from improper chemical cleaning, i.e. too strong a chemical cleaner or inadequate rinsing. It can also be an indication of water problems. Salt migration and/or sub-florescence and efflorescence should be considered a symptom which should be investigated to identify the source of the soluble salts and/or the source of moisture. Corrective action should then be taken to eliminate the source of the problem once it is identified.

Some efflorescence may occur naturally with new stones, mortar and installation materials. Normally, this efflorescence will be removed by natural rain and weathering processes and/or by regular washing. The new or continued appearance of efflorescence is a stronger indicator of problems like rising damp or inappropriate cleaning methods, all of which should be referred to the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO).

For specific guidance on removing efflorescence from limestone, see -02-R.

Erosion:

Erosion is the wearing away of the material surface by the natural action of wind, windblown particles and water. It can occur with limestone as well as any exposed materials. Inspections should include examination for any apparent loss of detail and edge sharpness which could be due to erosion.

Erosion may be less of a problem on rock-faced or quarry-faced marble, but may be a more serious problem on stone with more precise detail. Little can be done to correct this problem once it occurs, other than to protect the surface from further exposure. This may stop or at least retard the erosion process.

Flaking:

This is an early stage of peeling, exfoliation, delamination or spalling evidenced by the detachment of small flat thin pieces of the outer layers of stone from a larger piece of stone. Flaking is usually caused by capillary moisture or freeze-thaw cycles which occur within the masonry.

The problem can also occur due to sub-florescence, so that if flaking occurs, the area should be examined to determine if salt crystallization is occurring in the flaked areas.

Peeling:

Peeling is the flaking away of the stone surface from the substrate in strips or layers. It may result from the improper application of masonry coatings which result in failure of the coating and/or stone surface. It may also result from a defect in the stone, or from weathering.

Encrustations of the surface caused by chemical reactions with environmental elements may also peel or flake along the bedding plane.

Rising Damp:

Rising damp is the suction of ground water into the base of masonry through capillary action. Moisture is drawn up into the stone and may rise and fall due to conditions of temperature; humidity; site grading; absence or failure of damp courses, and/or treatments to the masonry surfaces which affect evaporation.

During active wet periods, rising damp may be visible as a darkening of the stone along the base at ground level. Due to the continuous changing of the moisture level due to varying exposure conditions, staining or efflorescence may be visible at a range of several feet up from the ground. Continuation of the problem can lead to more severe problems of flaking, peeling and/or spalling, but the correction of the problem requires the elimination of the source of water or the interruption of its path into the stone by physical or chemical damp-proofing.

Spalling:

Spalling is the separation and breaking away of pieces of stone due to sub-florescence, freeze-thaw, improper repointing with too hard a mortar mix containing too much Portland cement, or structural overloading of the stone.

Spalling is less frequent with limestone than with sedimentary stones which are also less hard. Limestone is hard enough to resist internal forces which would cause spalling in other natural stones or fabricated masonry.

For specific guidance on repairing spalling limestone, see - 03-R and -03-R.

Sub-florescence:

Natural stone floors are beautiful, but they can be extremely challenging to keep clean. Despite their beauty, natural stone floors have a tendency to become dull and dirty over time because of their porous nature.

While regular cleaning and polishing should help prevent your natural stone floor from becoming too grimy, sometimes you need a little extra help to keep it looking its best. Fortunately, it’s easy to hire a natural stone-cleaning service to get the job done in no time.

Importance of Knowing How to Properly Clean Stone Floors

Whether your natural stone floors have a polished, honed, or flamed finish, it’s important to give them the right care they deserve. A professional can easily identify the category of natural stone to which your flooring material belongs.

Determining what type of stone your floor is made of will help the cleaners know what type of solution to use. Using the wrong type of cleaner may permanently damage the stone because some stones react more strongly to acid than others.

RELATED ARTICLE: Why Is It Important to Hire a Deep Cleaning Service for Your Restaurant?

Best Tips and Practices

Here are some common and practical home-care tips and practices for maintaining the high quality of your stone floors:

Mopping Natural Stone Floors Regularly

Mopping at least once a week prevents dirt and grime buildup on your natural stone floors. You can use a solution with a mild detergent, then thoroughly dry the floors afterward.

Scrub Tile Lines and Crevices

You can scrub the lines and crevices of your natural stone floors using a very soft cloth or sponge. Using an old toothbrush or scouring pad could cause irreparable abrasion to the stone’s surface.

Vacuum with Rotating Brush Deactivated or Broom

When using a vacuum cleaner, turn off the rotating brush first, so it doesn’t scratch the surface of your natural stone floors. Also, don’t use a worn vacuum cleaner as the attachment may permanently etch the surface. You can also use a broom instead.

Use Alkaline or Any Cleansers Safe for Stone Floors

Steer clear of strong cleaners such as vinegar, lemon juice, and acid-based solutions. These can easily corrode the stone’s surface. Only use alkaline formulas or stone-safe soaps.

Use Microfiber Towels and Mops to Clean Your Natural Stone

When it comes to cleaning natural stone floors, dust mops and microfiber towels are your best bet. They’re soft enough for your stone’s surface but provide enough resistance to get rid of the hard gunk safely and effectively.

RELATED ARTICLE: Why Hiring a Professional for Tile and Grout Cleaning In Important in Your Home

For Deep Cleaning and Restoration, Hire Professional Surface Restoration

You don’t need to do back-breaking cleaning just to keep your floors in pristine condition. If you want to keep your natural stone floors looking new, Professional Surface Restoration is a professional surface restoration team that does the work for you.

Stone floors need expert care; it only makes sense to rely on people with a specialized approach for different kinds of floors with varying needs.

Professional Surface Restoration provides safe and efficient hard surface cleaning of natural stone floors. We determine the natural stone’s specific needs and keep them safe and dry using a protective sheet. We polish your floors and leave them looking like the day they were first installed.

For more information on our services, call us at (419) 705- to schedule a free demonstration today!

Natural stone stains may seem tedious to remove, yet, at the same time, they can damage your floor’s aesthetics. The truth is that you can remove most stains by applying the proper natural stone cleaning method. It all depends on identifying the source to find the best solution.

Here are ten natural stone stains you might encounter and how to remove each of them.

Oil-Based Stains

You’ll notice a darker stone when there is an oil-based stain. It could be any type of oil, and it will look the same. The best approach is to dissolve it by cleaning it gently with a chemical. The best ones include:

• Acetone
• Ammonia
• Household detergent
• Liquid cleanser with bleach
• Mineral spirits

RELATED ARTICLE: The Ultimate Post-Construction Clean-Up Checklist

Organic Stains

Organic stains can come from different sources. They look the same, a pinkish-brown color on stone. The most common stains come from:

• Tea and coffee
• Fruit
• Urine
• Bird droppings
• Leaves

The best way to clean them is by using 12% hydrogen peroxide mixed with a few drops of ammonia.

Biological Stains

Biological stains come from moss, fungi, mildew, and the like. The best option is to use a diluted solution. Use a half-cup per gallon of water to dilute any one of the following:

• Hydrogen peroxide
• Bleach
• Ammonia

Ink Stains

Ink stains come from pens and ink. For darker-colored stone, you’ll need to use acetone or a lacquer thinner. On lighter colored ones, hydrogen peroxide or bleach will work.

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Paint Stains

Using a commercial heavy liquid paint stripper will remove even heavy paint from your stone floor. However, it may cause etching on the surface, so you’ll need to polish it afterward. When using these items, you’ll need to follow the instructions accurately as they can be harmful.

Hard Water Stains

Accumulation of hard water can cause staining. The best thing to use here is dry steel wool to buff the stone and remove the stain.

Inorganic Metal Stains

These are typically rust or brown iron stains. You’ll need to use a poultice to remove the stain. However, it’s not guaranteed that you can remove all the rust.

RELATED ARTICLE: Natural Stone Cleaning Dos and Don’ts

Efflorescence

Efflorescence is white power or salt deposits left because of evaporated water. You’ll have to use a dust mop or vacuum several times to remove most of the stain.

Acid Etch Marks

Acid can both etch and stain a stone. You’ll need to clean the area with water. Afterward, use a polishing powder to try and remove the etch mark.

Fire and Smoke Damage

Stains caused by fire and smoke are difficult to remove but not impossible. You’ll first need to vacuum the area. Then try to use any commercial cleaning solution used for fireplaces and the like. You’ll need to follow the instructions carefully.

Hard Cleaning Don’ts for Natural Stone Floors

When cleaning natural stone, there are several things you have to avoid:

• Acidic materials like vinegar.
• Worn vacuum cleaners that can cause damage to the stone.
• Chemicals, unless the above directions say you can.
• Ammonia and bleach, as this can cause a lethal gas.
• Abrasive cleaners.

By knowing the sources of stains and what can clean them, you’ll have a better chance of removing the problem altogether. The first step is identifying the problem before applying a cleaning method.

If you can’t seem to get rid of the stain, contact Professional Surface Restoration. We can expertly handle all types of stains affecting natural stone.

We have a reputation for excellence, and the knowledge to get your dull stone floors looking shiny and new again. Call us today at (419) 705- to speak with one of our natural stone cleaning professionals. Professional Surface Restoration has the expertise you are seeking.

Natural stone flooring needs extra care. When you hire someone to clean your natural stone, you want to know that they are qualified. You may not be an expert in the proper care of natural stone but asking the right questions can ensure you are hiring the best natural stone cleaning service.

Here are five questions to ask to get you started….

What Is Your Specialty?

Whenever you are hiring a professional to work on your home, you want to be sure they can handle the job. Many contractors do side jobs that are not their particular focus area, but this isn’t the type of job for a general cleaner. Natural stone flooring and its care requires knowledge that you should only trust to a company that specializes in natural stone cleaning and restoration.

RELATED ARTICLE: 7 Facts to Know About Natural Stone Cleaning

What Are Your Credentials?

One way to make sure your natural stone cleaning service is qualified to handle your project is to ask about their credentials. Anyone can claim that they are skilled in a particular area, but you want to ensure that they can back up their claims. A reputable professional will be glad to share their credentials with you before tackling the job.

How Many Years of Experience Do You Have?

Even if a natural stone cleaning service has the proper training and accreditation, it’s still important to know how much field experience they have. It is essential to hire stone experts who know the individual needs of natural stone varieties. Also, ask how long they have been working in your area. Specifics of climate and weather elements have a major impact on natural stone.

RELATED ARTICLE: How to Choose a Tile and Grout Cleaning Professional

What Materials Will You Use?

Your cleaning service should be able to explain their entire process to you, including what products they use and how they affect your natural stone. You want to be sure they aren’t going to be using anything that is too harsh on your natural stone or on the environment. A quality cleaning service will use cleaning solutions that are EPA and environmentally-friendly.

How Will You Clean Up After the Process Is Finished?

While your stone flooring needs exceptional care, you don’t want to be left with a mess to clean up after someone has cleaned the floors. Discuss all stages of the cleaning process with the potential team and ask whether they will be responsible cleaning up after the floors have been taken care of.

Having a reputable cleaning service that you can trust is essential. If you are looking for an experienced team of natural stone cleaning professionals with a reputation for excellence, call Professional Surface Restoration today at (419) 705-.

Many residential homes feature different types of natural stone floor tile. Compared to other types of floors, such as ceramic tile, wood, and laminate, natural stone floor tile can present its own unique set of cleaning and maintenance challenges. The following tips can make spring cleaning this specific type of floor easier and safer for the material resulting in a longer lasting floor.

Know Your Floor

Before you begin cleaning your natural stone tile floor, take the time to find out what type of stone you are about to clean. The most common types of stone floors are made of marble, slate, or granite, but there are several more. Knowing what type of stone you are going to clean, will guide you to the correct information on proper cleaning techniques. For instance, granite is usually stronger than marble, which requires more delicate care. If available, consult with the installer or manufacturer on the best cleaning practices for the specific flooring material.

Avoid Acidic Cleaners

As a rule, when cleaning a stone tile floor, avoid using acidic cleaners such as bathroom and grout cleaners. Even though you might be tempted to use multi-purpose cleaning agents such as vinegar or lemon juice, you should avoid them as well. The acidic properties in these cleaners are too strong for the material, which can result in damage to the floor. Use gentle soaps and cleaners specifically made for the stone instead.

Clean Spills Immediately

If you see a spill on the floor, clean it as soon as possible. Blot the spill, as wiping it will spread it. Use water and a mild soap as necessary, but make sure you rinse and dry the area when finished. Call a stone cleaning professional if the stain remains.

Dry Mop Often

When it comes to cleaning daily dirt and grit, no tool is more reliable than a mop. For daily cleaning, you can simply use a dry mop. A wet mop is also effective, but it requires more time and effort than necessary, especially since dry mopping cleans up most of the dirt. Save the damp mop for special occasions. Also, make sure to use micro-fiber and closed-ended string mops to ensure cleaning effectiveness.

Seal the Floor

An important step to take in the maintenance of your natural stone tile floor is sealing the floor with an impregnators or sealants. Stone is a porous material that absorbs all types of dirt, spills, and bacteria that are nearby. Sealing the floor at least every six months is important in keeping these elements away and maintaining the integrity of the stone. Make sure you apply the sealant to a completely dry floor and let it absorb the agent for around 15 minutes before removing any excess chemicals.

The natural stone floors in your Toledo, Ohio home can be a thing of beauty once again. Please call Professional Surface Restoration at (419) 705- to schedule an appointment or request a free estimate.

Natural stone floors are a beautiful addition to your home’s interior. Stone is a natural flooring option that uses no dangerous chemicals, but it needs a little extra TLC to stay beautiful. Let’s look at some dos and don’ts for natural stone floor cleaning.

Prevention Goes a Long Way

Prevention is the key to reducing long-term damage. By reducing the amount of dirt and any spills on the surface of the tile, you can keep your floors looking beautiful for their whole life. Remember to always:

• Remove dirt and sand from the surface of your natural stone floor to avoid scratches.
• Clean up spills as soon as possible to avoid the liquid leeching into the surface of the stone. Liquids such as lemon juice, cola, and orange juice can cause permanent damage to the stone’s surface if not cleaned up immediately.
• Use non-slip rugs near entryways to keep dirt from tracking through the house. Stone floors are also slippery when wet.

One of the best methods to protect your natural stone floors is to have them sealed properly. Be sure to choose the proper sealant, and use as directed, or have it professionally done. Having your floors sealed can prevent spills from soaking in and staining or damaging the floors.

Natural Stone Floor Cleaning Tips

Sweep your stone floors daily to remove dirt and grime. You can also vacuum up the dirt and dust for best results. Keeping the dirt off the tiles will slow deterioration of the stone’s surface. Some stone experts believe you should mop stone floors with clear water daily to remove day-to-day build-up.

If using cleaners, they should be designed for stone care. You can also use a solution made of vegetable soap and water. Follow up daily care with regular deep cleanings. Homes with children and pets will require more frequent deep cleanings of the stone.

Don’ts for Stone Floors

While stone floors are fairly durable, there are a few don’ts you need to observe. By avoiding these few things, you’ll be able to keep your stone floors looking beautiful far longer.

• Don’t use lemon juice, vinegar, or other cleaners containing acids. They will damage the stone’s surface.
• Don’t use commercial cleaners unless they say specifically they are safe for marble or stone surfaces.
• Don’t use a vacuum cleaner with worn or missing wheels. They will scratch the surface of your floor.

With a little prevention and daily care, your stone floors will be around for a long time. They will add warmth and beauty to the interior of your home for generations to come. If you are looking for a new flooring option, consider adding stone floors to your home.

For questions about  natural stone cleaning, call Professional Surface Restoration at (419) 705- today.

Selling your home takes ample preparation, and not just in thinking about the financial aspects and figuring out where you’ll move to next. As you’re working on vacating your home, someone else will be determining if it is the place they want to move into. You need to make sure that everything looks as appealing to a potential buyer as possible.

You want your house to have vibe appeal – that intangible factor that makes it feel like home to a prospective buyer. Despite not having concrete elements, vibe appeal goes a long way to making a sale. While you don’t want to dig into any massive investments that won’t bring you proportionate payout, little touch-ups can make a big difference in making your home more appealing to its future residents.

Surface Cleaning

A clean home is easily one of the major components of vibe appeal, and thorough cleaning means your house will look as attractive to potential buyers as possible. Cleaning up any dust, polishing metals, and wiping down the windows can make a big impression on visitors.

Carpet

You don’t just want to stop at surface cleaning, however. Beyond general tidiness, give your carpets a thorough once-over. Don’t just stop at vacuuming; get your carpets professionally cleaned so they look and feel the best they can.

Tile and Grout

Tiles make for a great stylistic choice, but grout has the unfortunate tendency to show staining, even with regular cleaning. A full-scale deep cleaning of grout can make your tile look tip-top, giving the impression of newer tiles.

While all tiles are important, you want to take special care when tending to your bathroom. A dirty bathroom can give the impression that the whole home is dirty. Eliminating any traces of dirty grout will help your restroom contribute to the sale of your home instead of driving potential buyers away.

Front Lawn and Driveway

The adage “don’t judge a book by its cover” unfortunately does not apply to homebuyers. Before they even consider taking a tour, potential buyers will decide if they want to buy your house based on the front exterior. You need to do a little more than stick a “for sale” sign in your driveway to make people want to step inside.

Make sure you’ve tended to your front lawn. Adding a few plants and flowers helps make your house look attractive to others. If you have a driveway, keeping that in shape is essential, as well. Tend to any potential cracks and power wash the concrete.

Removing Clutter

There’s a chance your house has been your home for a substantial amount of time, and it’s filled with your belongings and memories. You need to remove as much mess as possible. Clean up any clutter for showings, so potential buyers can feel they have enough space and imagine themselves at home. For areas such as closets, removing at least half of your clothes can make the space seem roomier.

Cleaning is easily one of the most critical parts in successfully selling your home. Be as thorough as possible and watch your vibe appeal increase as a result.

Thinking about putting your home up for sale? Call us today at (419) 705- to request a FREE demo.

With summer right around the bend, many homeowners will be pursuing their deep-cleaning plans to prepare their homes for the warmer months. Many homeowners forget to include the cleaning of hard surfaces, such as concrete and natural stone in their cleaning efforts. These surfaces require routine maintenance and cleaning, especially if you want to keep them looking great between professional cleaning and sealing services.

To make sure the concrete surfaces of your patio and around your pool are ready in time for the spring and summer months, check out the following five ways to keep your hard surfaces looking as good as possible:

1. Use Baking Soda or Vinegar-Based Solutions

Baking soda and vinegar are two great ingredients for cleaning cement and concrete patios. Both are safe and natural options. To remove heavy stains, use a mixture of equal parts vinegar and water. For a gentler cleaning solution, mix ½ cup baking soda with one gallon of water and 1/8 cup of liquid dishwashing detergent. Simply spray your patio thoroughly, scour, and rinse completely.

2. Pressure Washing

If your patio is severely stained or mildewed, it might be a good idea to utilize a pressure washer, which can be rented or purchased at a tool rental center or your local home improvement store. Be sure to follow the directions when using the machine and to wear eye protection because these machines send water out in quick, forceful streams.

3. Protect Stains with Concrete Sealer

When your patio is thoroughly cleaned, you can ensure it is safe from additional stains with the use of a concrete sealer. Always begin at the center of your patio and use a paint roller to spread the sealant out to the corners. When your patio is dry, it will be shiny and clear just in time your first barbecue of the season.

4. Use Walk Off Mats

Dirt can erode the exterior layer of a hard surface, and it can cause serious damage if it is not kept at bay. If you have concrete flooring inside your home, experts say having at a walk off mat with a length of at least 5 feet can reduce approximately 35 percent of the soil from reaching a hard surface. Even better, a walk off mat of 25 feet can deter nearly all of the soil from getting to and deteriorating your hard surface floor covering.

5. Conduct Routine Maintenance of Concrete Surfaces

The best way to avoid lasting stains and surface erosion to your hard surface flooring is to reduce the amount of debris and dirt that accumulates on a regular basis. Basic weekly or monthly upkeep means starting with dry maintenance procedures including sweeping, dusting, microfiber mopping, and vacuuming, and then moving on to wet maintenance procedures, such as spot and wet or damp mopping.

For questions about how to maintain your concrete surfaces, call Professional Surface Restoration at (419) 705- today.

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