Milling Cutter Tools Explained - Types and Selection Guide - WayKen
Milling Cutter Tools Explained - Types and Selection Guide - WayKen
There are different types, and categories of milling cutter tools, each with different purposes and cutting abilities. Here are the common milling tool types.
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Categories#1: End Mill Cutters
End mill tools are mill-cutting tools that cut in all directions, making them quite different from drill tools that cut only axially. Manufacturers use the end mill for tool steel cutting and other milling processes, including plunging, reaming, slotting, drilling, face milling, profile milling, etc. There are common types of end mill cutters.
1.1 Ball Mill Cutters
These end mill cutters feature a ball nose. They are ideal for use in milling contoured surfaces due to their round cutting surface.
1.2 Square End Mills
Used for all-around milling, these end mills have a 90-degree profile. Also known as flat-end mills, they are ideal for milling applications such as plunging, profiling, and slotting.
1.3 Radius Endmills
These endmills feature rounded corners. These corners are ideal for cutting a specified radius more evenly, preventing tool wear, and prolonging tool life.
1.4 Undercutting Endmills
It is also known as a lollipop cutter, this well-rounded CNC mill cutting tool offers maximum versatility. Their shape makes them the ideal choice for machining undercuts.
1.5 Rounding Endmills
This Mill tool features strengthened ends. Their primary purpose is milling round edges.
1.6 Corner Radius End Mills
With several flute serrations, this tool, known as the hog mill, leaves a rough finish. Its ability to remove large quantities of material quickly makes it stand out.
Categories#2: Face Milling Tool
This tool is used for face milling. So what is face milling? It is the removal of portions of a workpiece. A face milling tool is used to achieve an excellent surface finish. At the sides of this tool, it has cutting edges that cut in a horizontal direction, as opposed to end mills that cut vertically. Also, a face mill tool is mainly used to cut the outside of the blank.
Categories#3: T-Slot Cutters
T-slot cutters feature teeth that are perpendicular to the outside diameter. Also known as woodruff cutters, these cutters are best known for cutting T-shaped slots into parts and workpieces. These types of milling cutters are ideal for cutting slots used for bolt heads and hanging brackets in wall panels.
Categories#4: Metal Slitting Saw Cutter Tool
These saws have applications across various industries due to their unique geometry and rigidity. However, industries like the automotive, precision engineering, and construction industries commonly use them to cut non-ferrous and steel materials. Here are the different types of metal slitting saw cutters.
4.1 Plain Metal-Slitting Cutters
These are CNC cutting tools with peripheral cutting edges only, with a concavity on the side to prevent cut dragging in.
4.2 Side Teeth Slitting Cutters
This type of slitting saw possesses both side and peripheral teeth. This feature allows it to maintain a consistent cutting width when removing chips.
4.3 Concave Milling Cutter
This is a slitting saw used to produce a true convex radius. This cutter applies a seamless and smooth semi-circular shape to workpieces.
4.4 Cylindrical Milling Cutter
It is ideal for applications where a high rate of stock removal is required. This slitting saw has teeth on the peripheral surface only.
4.5 Plain Milling Cutter
Also known as a slab or surface milling cutter, this type of cuter has helical or straight teeth. Furthermore, its teeth cut on cylindrical or periphery mills flat surfaces parallel to the cutter axis. Plain milling cutters are ideal for small-scale projects and those requiring light milling work.
Categories#5: Fly Cutters
These milling tool plane surfaces use one or more single-point rotary tools. Similar to the lathe-cutting tool, manufacturers mount a fly-cutter tool on a special holder. It is also important to note that fly cutters are not ideal for heavy-duty cutting operations. Below are the different types of flyer cutters.
5.1 Point Cutter
It features far-reaching needle-like points ideal for cutting densely packed corals. The cuts produced here are always clean and precise.
5.2 Rotary Carving Tool
This tool’s primary purpose is carving hard materials. It finds application in carving wood and engraving on blown glass.
5.3 Rotary Cutting Tool
These mill-cutting tools cut through a material’s fabric without distorting the patterned cutting line. Some professionals employ this tool in cutting up to eight layers of material in one milling session.
Categories#6: Form Milling Cutters
This is a cutter used for shaping irregular contours, both 2D and 3D. These cutters also come in different configurations and shapes. It is ideal for creating helical gears and other complex and intricate surfaces. It is used for groove, chamfering, and full-radius milling. There are three major types of form milling cutters.
6.1 Convex Milling Cutter
This is a form CNC turning and milling cutter designed to produce a half circle that curves inwards. Convex milling cutters facilitate the production of concave forms.
6.2 Corner Rounding Milling Cutters
This cutter is used individually or in pairs. These corner rounding milling cutters, also known as radius cutters, facilitate radius milling.
6.3 Inserted Tooth Milling Cutters
Inserted tooth cutter features teeth brazed to the correct location using screws or mechanically added to the cutter. The teeth material is usually carbide or tool steel. On the other hand, machined steel is ideal for making the cutter’s body.
There are different cutting processes ideal for different conditions. This difference in processes and conditions arises a need for using different milling cutter materials. Here are the most common materials used to make milling cutter tools.
Carbon Tool Steel
This is an inexpensive metal material with good machinability for making mill-cutting tools. This material contains 0.6 -1.5% carbon and usually less than 0.5% of Manganese and silicon. It could also include metals like Chromium and Vanadium, depending on the grain size and hardness the manufacturer wants to achieve.
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Milling cutters made from carbon tool steel maintain a cutting edge for a long due to their high abrasion resistance. However, at temperatures above 250°C, this material’s hardness declines rapidly. This makes it ideal for making low-speed machining tools like twist drills, milling tools, and forming and turning tools. It also works great for machining soft metal materials such as magnesium, aluminum, brass, etc.
High-Speed Steel (HSS)
This is carbon steel but with a small amount of molybdenum, tungsten, chromium, and other alloying metals that makes it considerably different from conventional carbon steel. With the addition of these alloys, high-speed steel has a higher toughness, wear resistance, and hardenability, giving it a higher metal removal rate.
To boost the lifespan of this tool, manufacturers employ both re-sharpening and the use of coolants (since it loses its hardness at temperatures above 650°C). This mill tool material is ideal for making drills, broaches, and single-point lathe-cutting tools.
Cemented Carbide Tool and Cermet
This mill tool produced by the powder metallurgy technique is extremely hard and can withstand cutting operations at very high speed. This material, composed of tungsten, titanium carbide, and tantalum, remains hard up to °C. There are different binders manufacturers use for binding the constituents of this tool, which include cobalt, nickel, and molybdenum.
Where the binding material is nickel and molybdenum, this tool is called Cermet and is used for different finishing and semi-finishing milling operations on different materials, including alloy and stainless steel. On the other hand, tools low in cobalt are ideal for finishing operations, while high-cobalt tools are best for rough cuts.
Ceramic
This material is non-reactive and harder than its cermet counterparts. It also has better resistance to heat, wears, and tear resistance than Carbides. This heat resistance makes ceramic milling cutters ideal for milling super alloy workpieces. For hard materials, high heat is required for ceramics to function properly.
Stellite
This is a non-ferrous alloy material made only by grinding or casting. It contains different quantities of chromium and cobalt. It could also contain tungsten or molybdenum. Cutting edges using this material retain their quality even at extremely high temperatures and speeds.
Manufacturers attach stellite teeth to a steel disk on large cutters; on smaller cutters, they use solid stellite. Cutters made using stellite are ideal for making automobile engine castings and other mass-produced parts.
There are a few things that you need to keep in mind in order to select the right milling cutter for your project. Here are some tips that can help you:
Milling Cutter Size and Diameter
The milling depth and width determine the size of the mill cutting tools. An increase in width and depth before mill tooling means an increase in the size of the milling cutter. However, Φ16～Φ630mm is the standard index milling cutter diameter range.
When milling parts with a large surface area, the recommendation is to use milling cutters with smaller diameters. Ideally, during any milling operation, 70% of the cutter’s cutting edges should take part in cutting.
Another factor that can determine the diameter of the milling cutter is the diameter of the machine tool spindle. The recommendation for selecting a face milling tool diameter is D = 1.5d, where d is the spindle diameter.
Also, when milling holes, the size of the tool also requires great attention because if the milling cutter diameter is too large or too small compared to the hole, it could cause damage to the workpiece or tool.
Milling Cutter Power
When selecting the right milling cutter, the major factors to consider are cutting power and workpiece processing size. For instance, when selecting the diameter of a face mill cutting tool, the power requirement of the tool should be within the power range of the milling machine cutting tool.
In addition, for a small diameter end mill, the machine’s maximum revolution meeting the minimum tool cutting speed (60m/min) should be the main consideration.
Selection of Milling Tool Body
When choosing a milling tool, the number of teeth on the tool is an important consideration. A dense-tooth milling tool can have 8 teeth with a diameter of 100mm, while a coarse-tooth tool with the same diameter has only 6 teeth. Coarse metal milling tools are ideal for rough machining due to their large chip flute, which reduces friction between the workpiece, cutter body, and the chip itself.
Besides, it is important to note that a dense-toothed milling tool’s cutting load per tooth is smaller than that of a coarse-toothed milling tool at an equal feed rate.
Selection of Milling Tool Blade
Using a grinding blade is the best option for fine milling tooling. This type of insert provides improved dimensional precision while increasing the placement accuracy of the cutting edge during milling, allowing for better surface roughness and machining accuracy. However, it is preferable to utilize a pressed blade for roughing because it can lower the cost of processing.
Moreover, using carbide inserts without sharp rake angles would reduce the tool service life, especially with small cutting depths and small feeds.
What is the difference between end mill and face mill?
The major difference between a face mill and end mill is that end mills use both the cutter’s end and sides, while face milling is for horizontal cutting.
How are end mills used?
End Mills can make specific shapes and holes in a workpiece during industrial processes such as milling, profiling, contouring, reaming, slotting, counterboring, and drilling operations. End mills have cutting teeth on the face and body edge. They work great for cutting various materials in different directions.
What is the difference between drill bits and milling cutters?
There are several differences between a milling cutter and a drill bit. However, understanding their function can be a major pointer to accurately separating them. A drill bit is a perfect tool for making holes in a workpiece, so it must have an apex angle to help it orient, whereas the milling cutter is used to mill the plane, so there is no apex angle.
Also, The drill bit has a tapered bottom to allow tool tip penetration, whereas the bottom of a mill cutter is flat.
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Newbie looking for advice on first lathe/mill - The Hobby-Machinist
I watched the two videos of Clickspring making a die holder for the Sherline tailstock. I think that the die holder can be made using a Sherline lathe and mill. Clickspring started with 1.5-inch diameter aluminum bar stock. The swing-over-the-carriage of the Sherline lathe is 1.75 inches.
Edit: the remainder of Joe Martin's answer
"... to consistently make parts of that size, you will probably be happier with a larger machine and more horsepower.
Removing large amounts of metal on a small machine takes time. If you have lots of time, the size of the part is less critical. Users of any machine are happier with its performance when they are not consistently pushing the limits of its capabilities. If you usually make small parts well within the capabilities of a 3.5" lathe and every once in a while need to turn a part sized near the machine's limits, you will be very satisfied wit that lathe's performance.
A vertical milling machine is capable of holding larger parts than a lathe because the part is held and only the tool turns. It also has a much longer table throw (X-axis travel) than a lathe. On a Sherline mill with the addition of the horizontal milling conversion, surfaces up to 6" x 9" can be machined without moving the part. This is a very large machinable area for a tool of this compact size." I was in your position not too long ago. I would really look around for a 9" lathe (or bigger), unless you are absolutely sure you will not be working on anything of any size, or are absolutely cramped for space. I was exactly of the mindset you are in, looking at Sherline, Taig, Mini-Lathe, etc. Mostly because I feared moving a heavy piece of equipment and having it take up space. What I discovered is that if you are patient and look you can find a 9" SB, Logan, etc. that isn't completely used up for about the same price as a new mini-lathe. It is easy enough to move with 1 other friend and a little common sense. And once you have a 9" lathe and learn to use it you'll kind of wish you had a 10" or maybe 13" lathe with a bigger spindle bore, more rigidity, etc...........
ETA: Whatever price of a lathe you pick take that number and double it unless you stumble on a deal with a LOT of tooling included. My $1,000 lathe turned into a $2,000 outlay with all the tooling I discovered I wanted along with a couple repairs to an older machine. I have a Sherline lathe and mill. I bought them for their size and weight, since I needed to be able to use them in a spare bedroom and put them away when done.
I think they are wonderful learning tools. They are very nicely made and accurate in use. A remarkably-complete range of accessories is available for them. You can do everything with them as long as the parts you are making are small. But consider how small "small" is. I think you could make a Stuart 10V on them, but only just. Definitely get the longer bed version, and skip the riser blocks (they aren't a substitute for a larger machine).
I mostly work with brass, for which they are a joy in use. The largest parts I've cut have been about 3" in diameter, in brass. That's the biggest you will want to go or may even be possible. Aluminum and "free machining" steel like 12L14 is also easy (I really dislike 12L14, however, due to how incredibly prone to rust it is). Harder steels or stainless steel are really too tough for these machines and not recommended except for very small parts. I've done it, and it's passable, but you learn a lot about controlling chatter if you try to cut stainless.
Complaints? One is that the Morse 0 taper in the tail-stock is very small and will slip a little too frequently if you overdo things like jumping straight to a larger drill size. Sherline's vise is also a touch too small small and light. You also have to be careful not to tighten things down too hard on the aluminum parts lest you damage them.
Flex can be a problem if too much tool pressure is applied, so you will be taking light cuts. However, your parts will be small too, and likely you won't be cutting very hard materials, and as a hobbyist your time is not money, so it's really OK.
The most flex I've experienced has been during drilling on the mill - there can be a "thunk" when you break through when the pressure is released. You should be stepping up drill sizes rather than going straight to your final drill size. That said, my holes have always been straight and accurate.
A note about these being "spare bedroom" tools: Yes, absolutely, but don't even think about machining in a room with carpeted floors. Luckily, I have wood floors, which is manageable. I have lusted over heavier machines such as those from P.M., but the comfort and convenience of working in my hobby room has so far outweighed that. I do suppose one of those 7" mini-lathes could work OK in that environment, but even that is far too heavy to be put away after an afternoon's work, so it should be considered permanently placed. And, of course, they famously tend to be of dubious quality. Any bigger than that, and they will be relegated to a garage or barn, too.
A Sherline lathe is so nice that they are rarely regretted. Again, they are a wonderful learning tool and fully capable for small projects. But just be clear on what materials you will be working with and how big your parts will be. And double your budget for all those accessories.
I have a Sherline lathe and mill. I bought them for their size and weight, since I needed to be able to use them in a spare bedroom and put them away when done.I just looked that up, that it a little fellow.... Looks nice though... I'm in the same boat, but I'm not limited by space. Boils down to what you want to do with it, how much space you've got to work with, and how much money you're willing to invest. If you're serious, any money spent on a micro rig is just money thrown away that could have been used on a better machine. Best advice I've heard so far, is "Buy the biggest and best machine you've got the space/money for". When you upgrade, the money spent on tooling and accessories isn't thrown away.
I think they are wonderful learning tools. They are very nicely made and accurate in use. A remarkably-complete range of accessories is available for them. You can do everything with them as long as the parts you are making are small. But consider how small "small" is. I think you could make a Stuart 10V on them, but only just. Definitely get the longer bed version, and skip the riser blocks (they aren't a substitute for a larger machine).
I mostly work with brass, for which they are a joy in use. The largest parts I've cut have been about 3" in diameter, in brass. That's the biggest you will want to go or may even be possible. Aluminum and "free machining" steel like 12L14 is also easy (I really dislike 12L14, however, due to how incredibly prone to rust it is). Harder steels or stainless steel are really too tough for these machines and not recommended except for very small parts. I've done it, and it's passable, but you learn a lot about controlling chatter if you try to cut stainless.
Complaints? One is that the Morse 0 taper in the tail-stock is very small and will slip a little too frequently if you overdo things like jumping straight to a larger drill size. Sherline's vise is also a touch too small small and light. You also have to be careful not to tighten things down too hard on the aluminum parts lest you damage them.
Flex can be a problem if too much tool pressure is applied, so you will be taking light cuts. However, your parts will be small too, and likely you won't be cutting very hard materials, and as a hobbyist your time is not money, so it's really OK.
The most flex I've experienced has been during drilling on the mill - there can be a "thunk" when you break through when the pressure is released. You should be stepping up drill sizes rather than going straight to your final drill size. That said, my holes have always been straight and accurate.
A note about these being "spare bedroom" tools: Yes, absolutely, but don't even think about machining in a room with carpeted floors. Luckily, I have wood floors, which is manageable. I have lusted over heavier machines such as those from P.M., but the comfort and convenience of working in my hobby room has so far outweighed that. I do suppose one of those 7" mini-lathes could work OK in that environment, but even that is far too heavy to be put away after an afternoon's work, so it should be considered permanently placed. And, of course, they famously tend to be of dubious quality. Any bigger than that, and they will be relegated to a garage or barn, too.
A Sherline lathe is so nice that they are rarely regretted. Again, they are a wonderful learning tool and fully capable for small projects. But just be clear on what materials you will be working with and how big your parts will be. And double your budget for all those accessories.
I've went from looking at mini lathes, to honking big lathes. Mostly because one of my "I wants" is a spindle bore of 1.25" or larger for rifle barrels. Which begs the question; "Is it worth spending umpteen extra thousands of dollars for a requirement I'll use once in a blue moon (if ever again, I'm not getting any younger)?". Simpler, far cheaper, easier if the need arises, to take them to a machine shop to be turned down, threaded, cut to length, and crowned. Would seriously make choosing a lathe much easier. All kinds of good deals out there in lathes 1" bore or less.
There's also price...I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a PM 10/30, with mount, tooling, extras, accessories, looking at $6k. BUT, for that, I can buy a bigger/better (and far heavier) used machine, with tooling, and spend the money saved on additional cool guy stuff. Like a good saw and a milling machine. But the PM is point'n click, hand them my credit card...no haunting auction sites looking for the perfect deal, arranging shipping, figuring out how to move a one ton machine (that may or may not be worn out or broken) from my driveway to my shop. Then again, getting there is half the fun. A project is a project, and rebuilding a used lathe would be fun.
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